Metalcloak Instruction Downloads & Support - Just Choose Your Rig Below
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Reply with quote  #1 
Please click the link below to view instructions (.pdf) referenced in the title of this thread.

 Please assist us in our commitment to continuously improve our installation instructions. If you think information is missing, have advice to share with others, or have clearer pictures/illustrations please post them to this thread. All feedback is greatly appreciated!

Only One Rule...Please Be Cool.


If you notice a post that has been deleted, we likely implemented the idea into our published instructions.
Questions about your installation?

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The comments in this forum do not represent official advice from Metalcloak. 
Users of Metalcloak products follow the advice of others at their own risk.

Mark B
Reply with quote  #2 
I installed the Gamechanger 3.5" no-shock kit on my JLUR last weekend.  Installation went relatively smooth in the shop on my 2-post lift, but I have a comment/correction regarding your installation instructions.  On page 23 under Section 3: Step I. says:  "Install the Rear Upper Control Arms so that the adjustable joint is in the rear, and the arm angles INBOARD to provide maximum tire clearance." 

I did exactly that, and I couldn't adjust the track bar enough to center the axle because the drivers side upper arm was contacting the frame.  I went back and checked the instructions and confirmed what it said, then I zoomed in on the pictures and saw where the adjustable end of the control arm was up at the frame, not the back.  Oops!  I swapped them around and everything was good to go.

Recommendation: Update the instructions to reflect that the rear upper control arms and their adjustable joints are to be located at the frame connection towards the front.

I think that you can make a minor change up by the front shock spacer and retain partial function of the factory front brake line brackets at the knuckle.  If you look at page 13 of the instructions, Step S and the associated picture shows the bracket where we drill it out to 3/8" which is where we lose the ability to connect the factory bracket. 

Recommendation:  Provide another small bracket that is approximately 3/4" to 1" wide and maybe an inch or two long, with a 3/8" hole in one end and a smaller hole in the other end.  Provide a slightly longer 3/8 bolt and install the bracket straight up towards the spring.  Then use the factory hardware to secure the one end of the brake line bracket to the new tab.  The other end won't be connected to anything, but it's got to be better than some tie wraps.

Better recommendation:  Offer a set of braided front brake lines as an upgrade.  Dump the factory brake lines and their associated brackets all together.  (Prying them apart for the lower control arm bracket is a HUGE PITA anyway... I'd GLADLY pay the extra scratch to not deal with those things!) 

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